Ian McNeish Borve

Borve, or Na Buirgh it's gaelic name, is the perfect spot for your Harris holiday.  It certainly is my preferred spot and staying at àilean is the cherry on the cake.  From àilean one has so many options for exploring the island.  Let me start with one of my favourite hill walks, Blaebhal.

Blaebhal rises behind the house to the south, the summit within three kilometres of the back door and around about an hour to get there.  It might not be the biggest on the island, but it's close proximity to the sea coupled with the fact it stands alone, makes it is the perfect spot for breathtaking views of mountains, islands and sea.

 

A stroll from the house at Borve onto Blaebhal provides a fascinating selection of sights and splashes of colour.  A rock band with clinging purple ling makes a lovely foreground for Lochan Lochtabhat snuggling under the northern flank of Bleabhal.

Depending on the season the area traversed is full of interesting flora and fauna; bog asphodel, cotton grass, orchids, tormentil and much more.  You might even spot a meadow brown butterfly, dragonfly and a whole variety of birdlife.

For those with an historic bent there is what remains of the stone age fort, Dun Buirgh, very accessible and no more than four hundred metres directly behind àilean.  Buirgh is from the Scandinavian word for 'fort' and Dun is gaelic for fort too but I suppose the name Buirgh became associated with the location over time.  Just a few metres beyond the top of the fort, directly east, is a prominent rock displaying neolithic or bronze age cup marks.  You can see some of them holding water in this picture. The route I generally use takes me past the north east end of Loch Lochtabhat.  Then it is steadily uphill and in no time one is at the saddle between the twin tops.

The panorama takes your breath away, well what is left of it after the last pull to the summit. The north horizon filled by the North Harris hills.  Taransay, the golden beaches of Losgaintir, then over Sgarasta Mhor, beyond the best wee golf course in the world to Ceapabhal and the Atlantic.  Swing round and the whole of the Uists lie before you and round again to Skye and the mainland.

You might be lucky and see a Golden eagle or a Sea eagle.  On one trip up the hill with Scott, we had two of the dogs with us, Border Terriers.  Whilst descended from the summit into Coire Bhleabhal, just below the smaller summit, Meabhal, the dogs were running ahead of us doing what terriers do.  We were taking in the view and anticipating lunch.  We were not alone in anticipating lunch.  Suddenly we became aware of a pair of golden eagles circling low over the dogs, no more than two hundred feet above us.  Instantly we realized the danger and quickly whistled the dogs in.  The eagles circled for a couple of minutes then slowly and gracefully swung away east along the northern flank of the hill, to seek out a another meal one supposes.

Then home for Stornoway black pudding and fresh eggs, home cooked, honestly.  We will catch up with the Butty Bus another day.

Ian McNeish

blogger, photographer, cyclist, walker and nature lover

More information on àilean can be found at www.harrisholiday.com, on facebook at Harris Holiday, email alison@harrisholiday.com or phone 07702 874724.

Öilean facilities

àilean is a unique self catering home on the Isle of Harris in the glorious Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles or Eilean Siar in Gaelic.  When you are thinking of renting holiday cottages in Scotland, why not consider visiting this little corner of paradise and staying in our luxury self catering accommodation?

àilean is a Scots Gaelic word which means green plain, meadow or oasis.  It is pronounced with a soft “ahhh” at the beginning followed by “lin”.  We named the house for its blissful location and also because the plot was the greenest , flattest bit in the field it was once part of – probably because it used to be Charlie’s potato plot!

The house is situated at Borve on the West coast of Harris in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland right in the heart of the island’s world class beaches.   We have “our own” beautiful beach (Traigh Mhor, or big beach) just 375 yards in front of the house and amazing views, more on those shortly.  First, let me tell you a wee bit more about the house. 

 

This Scottish holiday cottage has 3 spacious bedrooms and sleeps up to 6 people in splendid comfort.  On the ground floor the main features are the open-plan living area with log burning stove and cathedral ceiling, kingsize bedroom and large bathroom with double ended bath and separate shower.  Upstairs there are large kingsize and twin bedrooms both with en-suite shower rooms as well as a quiet area should you wish some tranquillity or a place to read.  àilean also has a fantastic infra-red sauna and the whole house is heated by underfloor heating powered by our wood pellet boiler and solar hot water panels.  The kitchen is very well equipped including an American style fridge freezer, double oven and big induction hob and is a great place to cook whilst soaking up the view.  We want you to enjoy your stay in àilean without worrying about having to bring basic necessities with you so rental of the house includes a good selection of items to make your holiday easy and enjoyable as well as linen and towels.  The house is also equipped with the little “necessities” of modern life and loads of extra touches

The large front windows frame panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, North Harris hills, island of Taransay and the distinctive hill Ceapabhal with its feldspar trumpet.  The Crofting lands behind the house lead to the gentler hills of South Harris which are peppered with small lochs and the remains of Duns and shielings.  Borve beach is just a short walk from the front door and there is a large selection of other beauties within a few minutes drive including the world class Scarista but Harris holidays are much more than just a beach holiday.  The renowned Isle of Harris golf course is less than a 5 minute drive away (play included in rental) and superb fishing is also nearby.   The island is paradise for artists, photographers, bird and nature watchers, historians, and outdoor sports like cycling, walking, sea kayaking and climbing.  Romantic break enjoying a little peace and seclusion with your love?  No better place!  Harris also has some special little galleries, coffee shops with views to die for and some good places to eat and of course opportunities to view and buy the world famous Harris Tweed, already fashioned or in the raw.

àilean is a great place to use as a  base for exploring as it is only  a 25 minute drive from Tarbert and  around1 hour 20 minutesfrom  Stornoway in Lewis.   Attractions such as the Callanish  Stones and Carloway Broch are within   easy reach althoughwe have some  standing stones of our own in Harris too  (like MacLeods Stone here) and from  the kitchen there is a good view of the   ancient Dun in the croft lands behind  the house.

There are many holiday cottages in Scotland but we think we offer something a bit special.   àilean is an unexpected delight in the accommodation Scotland has to offer.   Full details can be found on our website at www.harrisholiday.com.  You can also find us on facebook as Harris Holiday.

Tweed!

If you didn't see it earlier this month it is well worth looking up the slideshow from the Guardian featuring Donald John MacKay from Luskentyre.  As you will know from a previous blog DJ is a tweed weaver extraordinaire (and I love working with his cloth).  He and his wife Maureen live on their croft in Luskentyre with DJ’s weaving shed to the side of the house and wee shop at the front.  They have the most amazing view imaginable to the front of their house, right over the sands to the dunes and then the settlement of Seilebost on the other side, the sea, Taransay and the croft lands and hills of South Harris.  The colours of the land and water are quite indescribable and the whole scene changes by the minute.  The sand there is very flat and wide and although there is a river coming down and dissecting the beach the sea travels a large distance in and out on every tide.  The colour of the water over the sand is quite magical especially when the sun is on it.  The shape of the dunes and where the river runs changes all the time too so it is always different.

Anyway I digress.  The short piece from the Guardian was absolutely charming and captures DJ in a way most newspaper articles have failed to do in the past.  Avoiding the picture and text route this has a large number of images and a simple voiceover.  The pictures are brilliant and show DJ in his natural environment on the croft, round Luskentyre, down on the beach and the dunes, at home and in the weaving shed.  The angles used, especially the weaving ones, are quite unusual and each shot is matched to the voiceover which is DJ talking about tweed, weaving and reminiscing about his earliest memories of being in the weaving shed as a wee fella and his family life.  I think it captures Donald John’s character very well indeed.  Catch up with it here Donald John MacKay slideshow  Watch and enjoy!

Here's a wee bit of tweed to be getting on with, it's a beautiful green predominantly with flecks of other greens, blues yellows and a darker mossier green herringbone design.  It says summer on the dunes to me with the wind blowing in the maram grass and the sea sparkling in the sun.

If you would like to experience Donald John's tweeds for yourself they can be found at 6 Luskentyre, Isle of Harris.

àilean   Borve, Isle of Harris - a great place to stay on your Harris adventure

Harris Holiday

Harris Tweed

Every now and then something unusual or quirky crops up adorned or made from the unique and glorious Harris Tweed.  The only fabric to have its own Act of Parliament!  There is virtually nothing which can't be improved or made a bit special by this fantastic fabric which is still an important part of the islands.  This very day it is Harris Tweed Headphones http://www.urbanears.com/headphones/plattan/plattan-harris-tweed which look fantastic although they are a bit more expensive than the normal ones on the website.  I can't promise that there will be a pair in the house for guest use as I covet them for myself!

Buying a piece of tweed to have made into something just for you is still part of many a Harris Holiday.  There is something really special about taking the wonderful, hand woven and precious fabric home with you, it feels completely different to other momentos like photographs as it is real and tangible and you can use it every day.  More often than not the colours, texture and pattern of the tweed will be inspired by the landscape it came from and it is individual to you because you picked it - with dye lots being what they are no 2 bolts of tweed are exactly alike.  Every time you wear that bit of cloth, in whatever guise, or sit next to the cushion or draw the curtain it transports you back to the island.  A lovely feeling indeed.

The curtains in the main living area at àilean are made from Harris Tweed designed and made for us by our good friend Donald John MacKay from Luskentyre.  You may remember him from the Nike shoe a few years ago although he also supplies to Saville Row and many others and is on TV and in the press regularly, recently for his MBE.

The huge windows in the lounge at Borve and dining room frame amazing views from Ceapabhal in the south over the Atlantic to Taransay and the North Harris hills beyond and often it can seem like you are outside which is an exciting feeling.  I sometimes have to pinch myself that the house is really ours.  We wanted to use a tweed which added to this experience and also to give some privacy and cuddliness in the winter.  DJ has a fantastic eye for colour and we think the tweed tones perfectly with the floor tiles and wall colours whilst at the same time blending with the environment and looking stunning.  No mean feat.  I have attached a picture of said tweed above, it's hard to see all the colours but you'll get the idea.  These things really come alive when you look at them under a magnifier and then you understand what your eye is seeing.  More pics of the finished article in due course.

This winter I will be working on the curtains for the dining room to complete the look.  It's a big job as the windows are so large even though I have chosen a simple treatment and hanging system.  Lots of pinning, checking and adjusting is required as well as a large space to lay it all out.  A labour of love in Harris Tweed.

Aurora Borealis over Harris and the Dark Skies

A most fantastic aspect of spending time in Harris, especially early and late in the year, is the dark night skies.  When you get a clear night you can see a million points of light as well as moving bodies.  As Rick Lee mentions in There Is A Place it is a most mesmerising experience.  Borve is one of those locations where there are no street lights and limited light polution from dwellings.  Being near the sea there is a special darkness which makes àilean an ideal place to enjoy the sky.

There are a few people lucky enough to also experience the amazing Aurora Borealis too (aka the Merry Dancers).  One of these days I look forward to that experience myself.  These things must be pretty difficult to record on camera.  I recently shared a wonderful set of photographs on our facebook page - Harris Holiday - showing the wonder of the night sky and a range of Aurora effects.  These pictures were taken at Seilebost just a few miles to the north of the house.  Have a look at this link to one after reading Rick's poem and it will give you an idea of the show.    The Dark Skies of Harris

The full show can be seen on our facebook page here:    Harris Holiday on facebook

Quite amazing.  When will you visit Harris and experience the elemental?

There is a place

Rick Lee, wrote about his Harris Holiday whilst staying at àilean in Borve, South Harris.  His new book “A Ripple of Lies” will be published in late November 2012.

There is a place.

            At the edge.  The outer edge.  It’s a long haul.  You have to want to go there.

            It may be grey when you arrive with just the semblance of hills disappearing into the huddling gloom. Or you may have been treated to racing white clouds in a blue sky, the Sutherland peaks standing erect above the glacier scarred landscape like petrified dinosaurs.

            There is a place as you cross to the west where you come over a slight rise having negotiated your first few single track passing places.  On a sunny day with the tide high it will take your breath away.  In a gentle v-shaped view you’ll be offered a first sight of the myriad greens and blues and purples and browns you’ll come to love - your first glimpse of the white sand stretching into the distance on both sides and the island of Taransay lounging in the bay.

            But there’s more.

            There is more than one beach of satin sand stretching to the glittering sea.  There are millions of shells to be searched and treasures to be collected.

            You may find yourself lost in wonder in the buffeting rain as the waves rush towards you, the power of their thousand mile journey dashed in splendour at your feet.

Within minutes the sun will break through, the gannets flashing like black and white axes into the wallowing azure and emerald clarity not fifty yards away.  Perhaps a seal will appear and bob along, its mournful eyes watching you before it slips into the green depths.  Or busy dunlins will pickle back and forth across the wet sand in front of you.  Or you might raise your eyes to the humpbacked hills, where you can run with the deer and fly with the eagles.

Or you may wake in the night and stand in the cold air wondering at the enormity of a darkness filled with far more sparks of light than you’re used to seeing.

You may be befriended by a gaggle of wagtails fluttering at your windows or smile at the road gang of eleven very white sheep and three grizzly black ones as they hustle back and forth mowing the edges of the road.

You will need to return – because there is this place:  a terrible beauty which hangs at the edge of your minds when you’re not here, waiting for you to come back.



Rick Lee  www.attheedge.eu

Welcome to àilean

Luxury Self-Catering on the Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.

Welcome to àilean, a spacious and luxurious self-catering house on the Isle of Harris in the glorious Outer Hebrides.

Sleeping up to 6 people àilean is located on the West Coast of South Harris amongst some of the most spectacular beaches the world has to offer, surrounded by breathtaking Scottish scenery.

The Isle of Harris is a truly special place to visit whether you are looking for a relaxing or romantic getaway, something more active, a wealth of nature, history or culture.

For your next self-catering break come to Harris and experience the beautiful Outer Hebrides for yourself.